The red-footed tortoise (Chelonoidis carbonaria) has a vast range in northern South America. This reptile has been popular with tortoise keepers. It is a medium-sized tortoise that seldom grows larger than 15 inches in captivity.
Typically, they start breeding when they reach 6” to 8” long, which is roughly 7- to 8-year-old. At that size, their eggs are often infertile. The clutches are smaller than what fully-adult redfoot tortoises would produce. Breeding immature redfoots is possible. But, you’re more likely to get fertile eggs and healthy hatchlings if you stick to breeding mature tortoises. These are 10+ years old.
In the past, Redfoots have been imported from farms in Venezuela and Brazil. They are also imported from the Guyana/Suriname area, where they are taken from the wild.
These tortoises are farm-bred in their native country. As a result, wild-caught (WC) specimens now account for very few of the tortoises available today.
In comparison to the period from the 1970’s through the 1990’s, they were imported by the thousands. This mainly occurred in Colombia, Guyana, and Suriname. Redfoots are still exported in relatively small numbers, but private breeders are now providing greater numbers of hatchlings.
One of the most important aspects of successful redfoot tortoise breeding is feeding your tortoises a varied, nutritious diet. Some owners involved in redfoot tortoise breeding report seeing the largest clutches. They also report the highest hatch rates when tortoises are fed a wide variety of leafy vegetables, fruits, and vegetables. Sine keepers provide their breeding groups of tortoises an animal-based protein once a week as part of the overall diet.
Redfoots not being bred should only be fed animal protein rarely and no more than every other week. Animal-based protein can come from sources such as chopped boiled eggs, grubs, snails, slugs, or worms. It can also include boiled chicken, shrimp, or salmon. Another choice is canned tuna in water.
An inadequate diet can contribute to small clutches and infertile eggs. It can also lead to the development of incompletely formed embryos. Hatchlings fail to thrive despite receiving good care.
Male redfoots have a concave plastron, while the plastron of females tends to be much flatter. Males also have longer tails and a much wider, flatter anal notch in their plastron. Some males have a narrow “waist” that gives them a shape that resembles a large peanut when seen from above.
Typically, a male interested in mating will begin by walking closely behind a female. He circles the female repeatedly. He sticks out his head so that it’s close to her face. Then, he jerks his head rapidly from side to side.
Shoving, ramming, and biting can be involved. When “the time is right,” he’ll position himself and mount her from the rear. The concavity of his plastron lets it fit snugly over the top of her shell. During copulation, the male will make a series of unusual grunts or clucking sounds. The clucking is so loud that anyone in earshot will swear they’re hearing chickens.
Incubate Those Eggs
Redfoot tortoise breeding can occur at virtually any time of the year. Most breeders say it tends to take place either during or just after a rain. There are many reports that more than one male is needed for successful redfoot tortoise breeding. The presence of at least two males appears to stimulate the urge to reproduce. Others think only one male is necessary for successful Redfoot tortoise breeding.
In the wild, some female red-footed tortoises deposit eggs in leaf litter on the forest floor. Others excavate a nest before laying eggs. Nest size varies greatly, but the average is around 6 inches deep. Captive tortoises will lay eggs on the enclosure floor. Provide a nestbox large enough for the female to easily move around.
Once she starts laying her eggs, she also goes into a trance. Keep any other tortoises away from her. Do not disturb her until she has dropped her eggs. Wait until she has completely covered the nest and walked away. When the female deposits her eggs, dig them up carefully. Partially bury the eggs in small plastic food containers. Place these containers in an incubator.
Get yourself a Hovabator because it will only cost you around $30, last for years, and work like a charm. Make sure the incubator has been filled halfway with moist vermiculite.
Set the incubator’s temperature between 84 and 88 degrees Fahrenheit. At 84, you’ll get male hatchlings; at 88 you’ll get females; at 86 you’ll get some of both.
The incubation period ranges from 120 to 190 days, but the average is typically 145 to 150 days.
Lastly, like all tortoises and turtles, the older the female, the higher the percentage of hatchlings. At ages 8-10, expect a 25-50% hatch rate. If you’re lucky enough to get one between 35-50 years old, you’d see an 85-100% hatch rate.
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